Respect for seasonality, commitment to small local producers, recycling of waste, valorisation of short circuits … More and more French chefs are rooting gastronomy in a responsible approach, inventing a cuisinedaring that draws on both the terroir and innovation. Here are 7 chefs awarded a Michelin green star for 2021, at the forefront of taste!
Fumiko and Anthony Maubert: along the Loire
© Restaurant Assa – Fumiko and Anthony Maubert, chefs of the restaurant Assa.
One is Japanese, nutritionist and pastry chef, the other is the heir to a long French tradition in the food industry, passionate about farm products and wood-fired cooking. As a duo in the kitchen as in life, Fumiko and Anthony Maubert revisit local products every morning (“asa” in Japanese) in their restaurant Assa de Blois, on the banks of the Loire. Pigs raised on a farm in Loir-et-Cher, geese from the vines of Bourgueil, cabbages from the Fresnes market gardens, their purchases are made within a radius of 20 minutes. The only sprain, the Japanese condiments which combine their score, like the fragments of sobacha (buckwheat infusion) raising the smoked apple with the vine shoot!
Claire Vallée: vegan passion near the Arcachon basin
© Maxime GAUTIER – Claire Vallée, chef of the ONA restaurant.
She knew it was impossible, so she did it! This could sum up the journey of this intrepid chef, the first two-star vegan in the world, who took the gamble of creating her own brand to satisfy her passion for vegetal cuisine. In Arès, near the Arcachon basin, ONA (for Non-animal Origin) is a true philosophy of life. There is not an ounce of meat or dairy products, nor leather or wool, but wood, rush, a terrace with more than 140 aromatic plants, and a unique experience. Each menu, one per month, is built like a journey around organic seasonal products, and the imagination of a chef exploring taste. The crunchy mixes with the creamy, the raw with the cooked, the crispy with the acid, the memories of childhood in the Drôme, with the trips in Brittany : it’s subtle, original just like his career as an archaeologist in organic stoves!
Thierry Schwartz: 100% natural in Alsace
© Restaurant Thierry Schwartz – Chef Thierry Schwartz and his Flammenkueche with truffles
This former collaborator of Joël Robuchon has been promoting natural cuisine for almost 20 years in his restaurant in Obernai. An approach that is based on a very strong commitment to small local producers: Knight of the Order of Agricultural Merit, Thierry Schwartz has helped maintain the goose industry in Alsace., and encourages the reintroduction of forgotten grains, vegetables or fruits. All based on seasonal products in a short circuit, most of them biodynamic, his menus are designed to introduce new flavors: the chef has even created a fermentation chamber, where strawberries with a little taste of olive, garlic are shaped. black or dried mushrooms. The bread is made on site and the food and wine pairings are 100% organic and sulfur-free (over 1,200 references), with an alcohol-free version made from homemade juices and sodas.
Alain Perrillat-Mercerot: Savoy on the plate
© L’Atelier Sylvain Madelon – Chef Alain Parrillat-Mercerot.
From the lake to the plate! At the Table d’Atmosphères, a chalet perched overlooking Lake Bourget, you don’t just contemplate the waters dear to Stendhal or Lamartine. We also taste the flavors: as a good lover of the Savoyard terroir, the owner of the place, the chef Alain Perrillat-Mercerot likes to accommodate fish from alpine lakes, pike, chub or lavaret that he regularly includes in his menus. Locavore cuisine which also draws inspiration from market gardeners or cheese makers in the Aix-les-Bains market and is accompanied by a wine list 60% from the Alpine region.
Florent Pietravalle: from the cellar to the roof, in Provence
© La Mirande – Chef Florent Pietravalle.
Mystery yes, but up to a point! At the locavore table of La Mirande in Avignon, failing to unravel the secrets of chef Florent Pietravalle, you will know everything about the origin of his products: after tasting the surprise menu, each guest receives a card listing the names and location of the producers, all from the region. In this beautiful private mansion near the Palais des Papes, the dishes have the scent of the south, potatoes from Camargue, trout from Isle-sur-la-Sorgue or black truffles from Vaucluse. And they dare unexpected scents: the chef grows aromatic herbs on the roof of the hotel and mushrooms in the cellar, including from coffee grounds!